Sprouting - Reasons to Start & Instructions
See
our full line of Nutritional Supplements
Economics: Seeds can multiply 7-15 times their weight. At $4.00/lb for
seed that yields 26 cents for a pound of fresh spouted indoor-grown organic greens!
Nutrition: Sprouts
are baby plants in their prime. At this stage of their growth, they
have a greater concentration of protein, vitamins and minerals, enzymes,
RNA, DNA, bio-flavonoids, T-cell, etc., than at any other point in
the plant's life--even when compared with the mature vegetable!
Organic: No chemicals, fumigants or questions about certification.
You can trust it's pure because you are the grower!
Availability: From Florida to Alaska; in January or July, enjoy
live anytime, anywhere, even on a boat or when hiking a mountain trail.
Space-Time: It's Easy! Just add water! No soil. No bugs. No
green thumb required. No special lights. One pound takes grows in
only 9 inches of space and takes 1 minute of care per day.
Freshness: Because they are picked the same day they are eaten
there is no loss of nutrients sitting in crates or on grocery store
shelves.
Digestibility: Because sprouts are baby plants, their delicate
cell walls release live nourishment easily. Their nutrients exist
in elemental form and the abundance of enzymes make them easy to digest
even for those with weak digestion.
Versatility: More varieties of salad greens than on your supermarket
shelves...including buckwheat lettuce, baby sunflower, French onion,
garlic chive, Chinese cabbage, purple turnip, curly kale, daikon radish,
crimson clover, golden alfalfa and more... Your salads will never
be boring again!
Meals: Make sprout breads from sprouted wheat, rye, or barley.
Snacks from sprouted peanuts, hummus dip from sprouted banzo, cooked
vegetable side dish made from sprouted green Chinese sautes from mung,
adzuki and lentils, even sprouted wheat pizza!
Ecology: No airplanes or fuel/oil consumed to deliver food
to you. No petroleum based pesticides or synthetic fertilizers.
Sprouts are baby green plants. Like all helio-tropes, they follow
the sun from dawn to dusk. Through the miracle of photosynthesis,
they create their own food (carbohydrate) from sunlight. Jars are
simply not designed to accommodate this natural growth process. Sprouters
wit: vertical orientation, on the other hand, work in harmony with
the natural movement of green plants. They permit your sprout greens
grow like vegetables in your garden. In this book, we will be using
colander style vertical sprouter. Borrowing from the Orient's love
bamboo as a cooking utensil, we will use a simple, widely available
bamboo basket as our sprouter in the step by step discussion of how
grow sprouted baby vegetables indoors. In this sprouter, the sprout
roots support themselves by winding into the weave of the basket instead
soil. Once firmly anchored, they grow straight and stand tall. Our
technique will apply to any sprouter with a vertical orientation and
ample height for growth. Vertical sprouters grow the seedlings the
way vegetables grow the garden. Each seed gets proper exposure to
light and air. The seed hulls that are normally trapped inside a jar
are free to fall naturally. This makes less cleaning work for you,
and the grow sprouts are free of this dead matter which can cause
rot. Some the hulls are heavy, such as sunflower shells, which become
entangled in the mass of roots making the whole lot inedible. Other
varieties are 4-6 inches tall and even if they could grow in a jar,
would not fit. While jars are okay for basic bean sprouting, they
were never intended for the more sophisticated indoor gardening of
salad greens.
Advantages of a Vertical Sprouter
1) Allows for the natural vertical growth of plants just like in vegetable
garden.
2) Provides a greater surface area exposing more sprouts to sunlight.
3) Yields a higher volume of sprouts.
4) Allows all sprouts to reach their nutritional peak.
5) Has its own drainage system, avoiding screens, cheese cloth, rubberbands,
etc.
6) Allows faster, easier rinsing and cleaning of seed hulls.
7) Never needs soil.
8) Adds beauty to your kitchen and entire house. A greenhouse can be made from
anything that will hold in moisture and heat while allowing light penetration
and air circulation. With some caveats, even a simple plastic bag
will do. House your colander inside a plastic tent. Elevate the colander
so it does not touch the floor or the walls for best air circulation.
Good air circulation resists mold and fungus growth.
5 Easy Steps to Health
Green Thumb Not Required
1. Soak your seeds Overnight In A 16-32 Jar of pure water.
2. Pour Seeds Into Bottom Of Basket Sprouter.
3. Rinse Vigorously For 30 Seconds With A Sink Sprayer Moving Evenly Over The Seeds.
4. Place Basket In Greenhouse Tent With Ample Air Above Seeds.
5. Repeat 30 Second Rinsing Twice Daily, About 12 Hours Apart. Takes Only 1 Minute Per Day.
Wash Seeds and Baskets
First, wash all your baskets by boiling them for only 3 minutes in
hot water. Boiling sterilizes the natural fibers which are untreated,
unfumigated and unshellacked. More on the care and maintenance of
your baskets on p.28. Rinse your seeds clean, too. These special organically
grown and chemical-free seeds may contain small amounts of soil or
foreign matter. Rinse well and, if necessary, pick clean.
Soaking Seed
Next, open a package of seeds (we recommend clover for starters) and
pour 5 rounded tablespoons into a clean pint jar; fill ? of the jar
with pure, cold water. Stir, then let sit for 6 to 8 hours or overnight.
After soaking, pour the seeds directly onto the floor of the 8 inch
basket. Rinse them clean and let the spray of the water spread the
seeds evenly on the floor of the basket. Insert the basket into the
plastic greenhouse tent. Remove it from the greenhouse twice each
day for rinsing. It's that easy! Now, the proper way to rinse.
How To Rinse
Rinse the seeds with cold water using the flexible spray I attached
to your sink. If you do not have such a hose built in, chase a spray
adaptor which easily connects to the end of your
faucet. Faucet spray adaptors are available at houseware stores.
Three Methods of Rinsing
1) HOSING. The first method, described earlier hoses the seeds
with lots of water pressure from your hose sprayer or faucet spray
adaptor. This is the only way to rinse during the first four days
of growth until the roots anchor into the basket weave. A shower nozzle,
much like the one in your shower, performs best because it waters
the seeds evenly without disturbing their orientation. Some sinks
have a sprayer hose built in for doing dishes. If you do not have
a showerhead on your faucet, you can obtain faucet adaptor from any
hardware or houseware store. Rubbermaid makes a non-permanent adaptor
called the Faucet Queen attaches to your faucet end. Although the
name may be some quizzical, the function is one of converting the
jet of water in shower spray. And, with the simple turn of a valve,
your faucet returns to normal again. This small $3--$5 item is available
in most stores where housewares are sold. The sprouts prefer the even
rinsing of a shower to the harsh drilling of a faucet. Please do confuse
a shower spray with a mister or atomizer. Misters do supply enough
force for an efficient rinse. One more point, a rinsing, you will
notice that the water moves the seeds around is normal for the first
two or three days but after that, try not to disturb the organization
of the sprouts so that their roots may am into the basket. Anchoring
is necessary for cleaning the sprouts vertical growth, and as we shall
see later, for cleaning the hulls. In case you were wondering, yes,
you can use your shower it self. Sprouts like it in the bathroom because
it is the most humid room in the house and is often a few degrees
cooler in the hot weather. Simply run the basket under the shower
and set it aside to drain. You may close the curtain if your sprouts
happen to be shy. Actually, the curtain keeps in the humidity and
creates a greenhouse effect.
2) IMMERSION. This method is faster and easier than hosing but
is only possible when the sprouts have anchored their roots into basket.
This usually occurs after 4 days of growth. First, fill your sink,
bowl or pot with pure water, then dip in the entire basket a total
bath. Let the sprouts soak for at least 10 seconds, then drain and
set in the greenhouse. Make sure your sprouts are securely anchored
into the basket before immersing. Check the underside the basket for
lots of rootlets showing through the weave. Water temperature and
water purity are important. The water temperature should vary according
to season. In hot weather, it could be cold to cool the sprouts down.
In c weather, it could be warm to warm them up. Never use hot water,
which can reduce germination. Use lukewarm or tepid water.
3) INVERSION. Hang On Sprouts! Once your sprouts are securely
anchored, you can even turn the basket upside down! Nothing will fall
out except old seed hulls. Hulls are dead matter that decay promoting
root rot and mold. Eliminating these hulls will keep your sprouts
healthy and delicious. Fresh hulls, by the way, are simple vegetable
fiber similar to bran. Although they can detract from the flavor of
the sprouts, they are not harmful to eat. The inversion method is
the fastest, most thorough method for rinsing away the hulls.
How to Drain
Even though they are porous, baskets will retain water if held in
a level position. After rinsing your seeds, hold the basket at an
angle for a minute or until it stops dripping. You can test this yourself
by holding a wet basket level and then tilting it slightly. The water
will start to drain as soon as you tilt. Do not tilt too much during
the first few days or the seedlings will fall out with the water.
They require at least three days before their roots are long enough
to wrap into the weave of the basket and hold on. Placing your basket
on a dish rack or leaning it on a towel is very helpful if you have
a lot of baskets or simply do not want to stand and wait. Or, when
the seedlings have anchored themselves, you can wave the basket gently
in a tub of water with the basket turned upside down to shake loose
any excess water, then insert it back into the plastic greenhouse
tent.
How to Harvest
Harvesting usually brings forth images of large machinery through
vast open fields. But to a sprout gardener, it simply time to eat.
Time to eat. Grab your baby-greens by their tops and wiggle them free.
Draw out the whole plant, roots and all. If too tight, grab a smaller
amount and wiggle as you pull. Buckwheat and black skin sunflower
all have long, heavy roots that can hold a strong grip your baskets.
Harvest these sprouts carefully by wiggling small amounts out at a
time while holding the basket securely in place. While still gripping
the sprouts, whisk the roots through a bowl water to dislodge any
hulls. Yes, you can eat the roots! These roots have never touched
soil and are clean and full of minerals. This is rare opportunity
to enjoy the healthful benefits of eating a whole plant. Some folks
are not used to touching food especially if it is be served to others,
however, with sprouts, it's different. What you grab ends up on your
own plate, So you are not actually touching someone else's food. But
if your company is fussy about fingers, pull them out for everyone
and mix them in your salad bowl or set them on a salad plate where
people can take their own. Unfortunately tongs or salad grabbers do
not work. Because the sprouts are rooted into the basket or colander,
you need the combined strength and tenderness of the human hand. If
done correctly, you will not disturb the younger, immature sprouts
growing underneath. These sprouts are the next generation. Although
they are light green yellow in color, they will turn green and mature
once exposed the light. Try not to grab deep into the basket or to
pull from the bottom. This makes a hole in your crop and pulls up
the younger generation before it is mature. When you are finished
put your basket back in the plastic greenhouse tent and allow the
immature sprouts to continue growing. If you "pluck" your
sprouts properly, you can reap as many as 3 harvests depending on
the variety and season. This maximization of your crop is possible
simply by working with the different rates of seed growth and allowing
the different generations to mature. You get greater yields and more
food value from sprouts in their "nutritional prime."
When to Harvest Your Crop
Your young, leafy green sprouts are at their nutritional peak when
the bud develops a cleft (divides into a left and right petal) and
drops its hull. Harvest time is when 90% of the crop is hull-free
and has left and right petals. Refer to the following chart. Harvest
time may vary slightly depending on temperature and season.
Number of Days To Mature
| 5-6 Days |
7 Days |
8-12 Days |
12-14 Days |
| Radish |
Alfalfa |
Buckwheat |
Garlic |
| Cabbage |
Clover |
Fenugreek |
Onion |
| Kale |
|
Red Pea |
Chia |
| Turnip |
|
Sunflower |
Psyllium |
| Mustard |
|
Wheatgrass |
|
Harvest Times For Chlorophyll Rich Sprouts
Number of Days to Maturity.
| Fenugreek |
8 days |
Radish |
5 days |
| Alfalfa |
7 days |
Cabbage |
5 days |
| Garlic |
14 days |
Onion |
14 days |
| Red Clover |
6 days |
Black Mustard |
5 days |
| Kale |
7 days |
Turnip |
5 days |
| Buckwheat |
10 days |
Sunflower |
10 days |
| Wheatgrass |
12 days |
Chia |
14 days |
| Red Pea |
11 days |
Psyllium |
14 days |
What Seeds To Spout Your sprouter is ideal for growing indoor
vegetable seeds that develop chlorophyll--rich, green leaves.
| Alfalfa |
Garlic |
China Red Pea |
| Clover |
Onion |
Turnip |
| Fenugreek |
Mustard |
Cabbage |
| Radish |
Buckwheat |
Broccoli |
| Kale |
Sunflower |
Chia |
Which Seeds - Which Size - How Much
| 6" 2-3 Tbsp |
8" 5 Tbsp |
9" 7 Tbsp |
| Radish |
Alfalfa |
Buckwheat |
| Garlic |
Clover |
Sunflower |
| Onion |
Fenugreek |
China Red Pea |
| Cabbage |
|
|
| Kale |
|
|
| Turnip |
|
|
| Chia |
|
|
| Mustard |
|
|
Double Decker Technique
Stack Your Sprouters! Since space is often a problem, here's a technique
to conserve it. Two sprouting baskets on top of each other take up
less space than two side by side. During the First phase of germination
(days 1-4), any two of the sprouters could be stacked with the smaller
basket underneath the bigger one. Insert the double decker into the greenhouse.
Greenhouse Tent
Greenhouses can come in a variety of different sizes and shapes from
the size of an outdoor structure building to a simple 10 inch plastic
tent. Believe it or not, this simple plastic tent serves a very important
purpose. During the first few days of their life, a sprout is highly
vulnerable to the elements and its worst enemy is dry air. Seedlings
are accustomed to the protection of Mother Earth. Normally the soil
acts as their shield to regulate their temperature and keep them moist.
But since our indoor seedlings are grown without soil, extra care
is required. A greenhouse provides the necessary protection. It:
1) Retains moisture
2) Maintains temperature
3) Allows light to enter
4) Allows adequate air circulation.
Without protection, wind and air will dry your sprout garden. Both
the roots and the tops are unprotected and will shrivel dry. If you
leave the greenhouse tent off for only half a day, en damage could
be done to ruin the growth potential. Even if damage is not immediately
obvious, it often becomes apparent the sprouts do not grow as tall
or endure as long. The dried sprouts go bad first and affect the health
of the whole basket. This problem is especially critical during the
first four days of germination a the seeds are just developing their
roots and uprighting themselves. After that, the sprouts organize
and send their roots down a simultaneously developing their leaf systems.
Once developed, leaves retain moisture and act as little umbrellas,
which shield sprouts from wind and heat. The mature sprouts are less
vulnerable and can survive even without the greenhouse tent for a
few hours. The leaves can stay out in the open but the roots cannot.
The roots are exposed and depend on the greenhouse to prevent them
from drying out. Once you eat from the mature crop, you remove the
layer and with it a lot of protective leaves. Then, they need the
greenhouse once again. The greenhouse is recommended throughout the
life of the sprouts but is less critical when the sprouts are mature
and their leaf systems are fully developed. A simple plastic bag can
serve the role of a greenhouse as long as it is thick enough not to
topple from the weight of the water droplets that co1lect inside.
A thickness of 4 millimeters with a gusseted design gives it the strength
and prevents collapse. An erect tent enables adequate air circulation.
Insert your sprouts into the greenhouse tent in such a fashion that
it stands vertically, like a tent, over the basket. This creates a
large bubble of air for the sprouts to breathe and is most critical
factor in using the greenhouse. Consider the effect of bag that sits
on top of or collapses on the growing sprouts. They will suffocate
and, if warm outside, quickly overheat. But if there is sufficient
envelope of air, the sprouts will breathe well and keep cool. The
only time you may use a smaller tent or bubble of air when the sprouts
are just starting. One, two, and three day old sprouts can survive
with less air because their respiration process just beginning.
Homemade Greenhouse
Want to build a more elaborate greenhouse? Simply construct a rectangular
frame approximately 2 feet long by 1.5 feet wide and 1.5 feet high.
Staple a plastic sheet on all sides except the front flap which should
be hinged for taking the sprouters in and out. Now, simply set your
sprout baskets inside. In cold climates, place your greenhouse tent,
rigid plastic greenhouse or homemade greenhouse, near an incandescent
light where the heat of the bulb will be trapped inside for faster
germination. Use only an incandescent bulb. Fluorescent lights and
the new comp fluorescents are highly energy efficient which is great
except need bulbs that produce heat. Neodymium bulbs are best for
plants and people because they offer a fuller spectrum of light than
regular incandescent bulbs. Duro-test and Chromolux are two popular
brand names available through your light store. Ask them to special
order it for you.
Marriage of Baskets & Sprouts
Baskets can mean many things to you and me. They may be something
that holds your bread or something that holds your laundry. But to
a sprout, a basket is a very personal thing. It is his/her home, cradle,
bedroom and dining room all in one. Some baskets have weaves that
are too wide. A little sprout could fall through to frightening death!
Some are woven too thick leaving no room to breathe. Some are lacquered
poisoning sprouts and people. Some are too shallow. A little sprout
must have it just right. The ideal basket for a sprout is made from
bamboo, a plant itself that grows in the rain forests of Asia. The
vast majority of bamboo products are imported from China. Other fibrous
woods such as wicker, straw, willow and rattan are not suitable. Bamboo
baskets come in different sizes and shapes, but for sprouting purposes,
we use one 8 or 9 inches in diameter with sides 2 ? inches high. The
weave is a tea strainer weave and the fiber is not shellacked. Larger
more open weaves are necessary for big sprouts like sunflower China
red pea, buckwheat and wheatgrass that have large root systems.
Hydroponic vs. Soil Grown
Hydroponics involves the growing of plants without soil. Nutrients
come from the water supply or, in commercial operations, through synthetic
fertilizers added as liquid food. Our method uses only water as the
source of nourishment for the growing plant, so it is primary importance
that the water source is pure. Liquid kelp, available in natural food
stores, can be added as additional plant food and a natural fertilizer.
Add the kelp first during soaking and or more approximately halfway
through the growth cycle. Put the diluted kelp solution in a bowl
and place the basket of sprouts in it. The roots will soak up the
nutrients from the solution. Sprouts grown with the aid of this liquid
vitamin-drink taste sweeter. Generally, plants grown in a non-soil
environment are less nutritious than those grown in healthy soil.
But because these seeds are so rich to begin with and soil on commercial
farms today is so poor, these hydroponic sprouts are still far healthier
than commercial vegetables. However, if you wish the maximum nutrition
possible, and are willing to invest the time, grow all sprouts in
organic soil.
Why a Sprout Bag
Sprout bags are a relatively new concept in sprouting. Although jars
have been synonymous with sprouting since its inception, the advent
of the sprout bag is revolutionizing sprouting. Bags have many advantages
over jars. Sprout bags save time, space and hassle. Say goodbye to
rubberbands, special lids, musty cheesecloth, angled jar racks and
broken glass. Just immerse the bag in water, then hang it on a hook
or knob, a faucet or just lay them in the dish rack. Where jars only
breathe thought a relatively small mouth, sprout bags yield perfect
drainage and aeration on their entire surface. Fungus and growth problems
occur because of too little air and too much moisture. Even your refrigerator
will be happier when your remove all those bulky jars and replace
them with sport bags. They take up less space the more you eat. And
don't leave home without one. Sprout bag easy travelers. Take them
with you on your next trip. They pack into lunch boxes, hang happily
from your pack, like long boatrides and enjoy the branch of a shady
tree. Unlike jars, they never break.
|
Sprout History Lesson
|
|
Dark Ages The Jar
|
Modern Age The Sprout Bag
|
| Description: Old fashioned
method, cumbersome. Requires cheesecloth, screens, rubber
bands. Cheesecloth collects bacteria. |
Description: Made
from the natural fibers of the Flax plant. Hand processed. No
chemicals. Discovered by Sproutman circa 1979. |
| Time: Time consuming 3-step process.
Fill up, pour out, then tilt at an angle to store and drain. |
Time: Fast.
Convenient 2 step action. Dip in water, hang on hook or knob.
|
| Space: Takes
up lots of shelf space and precious refrigerator space. |
Space: Bags
expand or contract according to amount of growth and consumption. |
| Air: Poor circulation. Air is limited by
the narrow size of the opening. |
Air: All sprouts get equal air. Good
aeration prevents mold. |
| Drainage:
Incomplete. Mold created by stagnant water at bottom of jar. |
Drainage:
Complete drainage without tilting or waiting. Good drainage prevents mold. |
| Breakage:
Requires extra care. Difficult to transport. Accidents ruin crop. |
Durable: Actually
20% stronger wet than dry. |
| Size: Small jars overflow. Sprouts
get little air. Hands can't get inside narrow opening. Takes up space. |
Portable: Lightweight,
unbreakable. Great for traveling or camping. |
| Will Sprout: Sufficient
for most beans and grains with some exception. |
Will Sprout: All
nuts, grains, beans, legumes, vegetables, galatinous seeds. |
| |
Advantages: Holds 3/4 Gallon.
Remains moist but not wet. |
1. Soak your seeds in a jar of pure water overnight
2. Pour soaked seeds into pre-moistened sprout bag rinse and hang bag on hook or knob.
3. Rinse bag simply by immersing it in water rinse twice per day, no more than
12 hours apart, a minimum of 30 seconds.
Art Of Draining
If there is an art to rinsing sprouts, then there is also an art to
draining. Sprout bags are easy. Hang your sprout bag to drain hook
or knob. Small hooks are easy to install and the sprout stops dripping
after only a few minutes. If you find it inconvenient to hang, set
the well drained bag on a dish, a dish rack or even a clean oven or
dishwasher rack. Always keep your bag in a medium to-warm spot and
away from dry air or drafts which dry the out. Ideally, they should
remain moist between rinsing.
Nature Does the Rest
Now, the sprouts are tucked away in their comfortable natural fiber
home. Neither the grains nor the beans require darkness to grow, nor
do they need light. Any light will do. Keep them in a neutral place
that is convenient for you. Most beans will mature in 4 or 5 days
while the grains take 2-4 once mature, store them in the refrigerator
and rinse once every second or third day. They will keep for one to
two weeks.
|
Best Seeds for Growing in the Sprout Bag
Number of Days till Maturity
|
| Lentil |
[4-5] |
Soybean |
[4] |
| Adzuki |
[4-5] |
Hulled Sunflower |
[2] |
| Mung |
[4-5] |
Peanut |
[7] |
| Green Pea |
[4-5] |
Garbanzo |
[4] |
| Hard Wheat |
[2-3] |
Chia |
[12] |
| Soft Wheat |
[2-3] |
Flax |
[2] |
| Rye |
[2-3] |
Triticale |
[2-3] |
| Kamut |
[3-4] |
Red Pea |
[4-5] |
| Fenugreek |
[5-7] |
|
|
Large beans such as lima, navy, kidney, black bean, etc. are poor sprouters.
Germination these beans is generally between 40% and 60%. That means that half
the beans sprout while the other half rot. The bad beans infect the good beans
leaving you with a moldy mess. Grocery store beans are especially poor sprouters
because many commercial brands are scrubbed so clean they become sterile.
Big beans do better in a sprout bag than in a jar because the improved
aeration and drainage. If you are going to sprout these beans, they
do better if rinsed more often than other sprouts. Rinse 3-4 times
per day for best results.
Grains such as hard wheat, soft wheat,
rye, triticale are good sprouters. Rice, quinoa, oats, barley and
millet, however, are a different story. Oats, barley and millet fall
into a special group since they cannot sprout in the popularly available
form. These grains, as found on your grocery shelves, are husked for
cooking. The husk is heavy jacket that protects the seed. It is not
just another fiber like the bran in wheat. This fiber is a coarse
ligneous cover that impossible to chew unless you are a horse. (Lignin
is a woody cellulose.) Cooking does not help either. In order to sprout
these varieties, you must obtain the agricultural, unhusked, whole
seed which you can only obtain from farm seed companies.
Rice, is another matter. Unless you have your own rice pattie, it
is extremely difficult to sprout. Rice grows in marshy, flooded lands
and has a long gestation period. This, plus its small shoot, makes
it impractical for home sprouting. Quinoa can only grow with its saponin
rich sheath (jacket) on and intact. Unfortunately, this is not how
it comes when you purchase it at the health food store.
Alfalfa, radish, clover, fenugreek and other leafy green vegetable
sprouts can grow in a sprout bag, but because of their desire for
sunlight you will get better results using a vertical sprouter. Sprout
bags are so versatile, that they can even sprout the gelatinous seeds
like chia, flat psyllium, and cress.
Life Expectancy
With proper care, most home grown varieties last from one to two weeks
after harvest. One of the most important steps in extending the life
of your sprouts is cleaning them. Cleaning means washing away the
hulls. Hulls are inert (dead) matter that decays and can ruin your
crop if not removed. After harvesting, clean your sprouts well in
order to get the most longevity from them.
Refrigeration
The need to refrigerate your sprouts depends on these factors:
a) Their age and condition
b) Temperature or season
c) Quantity available vs. capacity to consume
Once mature, you will have to refrigerate your sprouts for at least
part of the time. How often depends on their condition. Identify an
unhealthy sprout by its...
a) Bad odor
b) Soft or soggy spots
c) Drying or darkening of roots
d) Darkening or losing color
Bad odor is the first sign that sprouts are aging. You will smell
a problem before you will see it. Texture is the next clue. Young
sprouts are firm when fresh. Older sprouts will develop areas that
are soft or soggy. Examine the underside of the basket where root
system comes through and you will see how the roots show signs of
deterioration long before the tops. The roots may look brown or dried
out. Eventually the tops will tend to lose their richness of color
and darken, too. If you see any of these signs, sprouts must be refrigerated.
Refrigerator Storage
Use this method only for storage in the refrigerator or harvest and
place sprouts in a glass or plastic container.
Remember, sprouts will not survive as long in the hot weather. They
suffer from a condition known as root rot, something similar athlete's
foot. The treatment: keep them cool and clean.
Hydrogen Peroxide For Prevention of Mold
As surprising as it may sound, Hydrogen Peroxide, similar to the kind
that sits on drug store shelves across America, has become a rising
star as a healing agent in alternative therapies for degenerative
diseases including even AIDS and cancer. What is Hydrogen Peroxide?
H202=H20 + O, or...water plus an extra oxygen molecule. Water and
oxygen are the two most vital elements of life but how does it fight
disease? Therapeutically, the extra oxygen is used to increase the
overall oxygen level in the blood. This hyper-oxygenation is wonderful
for normal cells and strengthens the immune system. But cancer cells,
by their nature, are anaerobic and oxidize (combust) in an elevated
oxygen environment. Alternative health clinics in Mexico and West
Germany have been using bio-oxidative therapies with impressive results
and many individuals tell of its success in treating arthritis, candida,
herpe, and other ailments including the common cold. How does this
relate to sprouts? Mold growth is inhibited the use of Hydrogen Peroxide.
When added to the soak water or the rinse water, mold development
can be reduced or eliminated entirely and the extra oxygen encourages
a more robust crop. It is this oxygen that burns or "combusts"
the mold.
Pharmaceutical brands of peroxide have numerous additives, stabilizers
and buffers to keep the oxygen from escaping as well low 3% potency.
Even so, it is effective in destroying germs and is the best mouthwash.
Food grade peroxide is 35% potent and l00% pure. Only 15 drops are
necessary to add to your soak or rinse water. Let the rinse water
sit for at least 5 minutes. The treatment need not be applied every
rinse but only when necessary or once every 2 days as regular maintenance.
It is an aid and a preventative, but not a necessity. If you are interested
in the therapeutic use of oxygen, the book, Oxygen Therapies by Ed
McCabe, is also an excellent resource on the different bio-oxidative
treatments, uses, clinics, and background information.
How To Apply H202 On Sprouts
Cautions on Handling H202. Full strength (35%) Hydrogen peroxide (H202)
can cause temporary white spots on the skin with burning and itching.
Use rubber gloves whenever handling full strength H202. Rinse the
exterior of the bottle with water before and after using. As with
all medicines and chemicals, keep out of reach of children. Full strength
H202 is not for human consumption. Always dilute before using. Avoid
contact with eyes. Handle with care.
Method [1] Soaking the Seeds. Add ? teaspoon of full strength
(35%) H202 to the water in which you soak your seeds. Use l6oz of
soak water. The H202 helps disinfect any bacteria in the seeds and
increases the amount of available oxygen and nitrogen to them, Expect
some seeds to rise and bubbles to form.
Method [2] Misting the Sprouts. Use the same dilution of ?
teaspoon of H202 in a pint (16oz) of water. Spray the sprouts with
a mister bottle once or twice per day for extra oxygenation and disinfection.
Spray the sides and bottoms of the basket, too! Misting with 202 does
not replace regular twice daily rinsings with plain water. Use H202
after rinsing with water. Caution: Stronger solutions may burn the
delicate tips of leafy sprouts such as alfalfa and buckwheat turning
them brown or yellow.
Method [3] Soaking the Sprouts in a Basin. Soak your basket
sprouters in a basin or sink full of water. Treat the water in the
sink with the equivalent of a ? teaspoon per l6oz of water. This is
just enough to hear a light fizz when listening to the baskets. This
helps generally oxygenate the sprouts and keeps them free of mold.
Method [4] Treating the Baskets. Pour full strength 35% H202
into a large pot with a lid and immerse your baskets in the solution.
Let sit for 4-8 hours, then strain and recycle the H202 back into
its original bottle. This treatment, for new or old baskets, sterilizes
the baskets and makes and makes them resistant to mold.
Treating Grains and Beans. Because they do not have delicate green
leaves, grains and beans, like wheat, garbanzos, peanut, soybeans,
etc., may be soaked in a stronger dilution of H202. Use 1 tsp per
16 ounces of water. Caution: Do not soak your sprout bag in H202.
Its natural fibers will be weakened by the oxidizing action of the
peroxide.
Mold Discoloration. If mold does develop, it can create or dark spots
on your baskets. Used early, H202 will prevent development of mold
and thus its discoloration. Although H202 stops mold, the 35% concentration
may not be strong enough to bleach out all the dark stains. Bad stains
can be removed another strong oxidizer, Clorox bleach. Mix a 1 to
1 Clorox to water solution and submerge the stained basket. Let soak
until bleached clean. Bleach is not as environmentally desirable as
H202.
Growing Wheatgrass in Soil. When growing wheatgrass soil, mold can
develop on the soil surface. Using a mister bottle, spray the surface
with a 1 teaspoon per l6oz H202 dilution. A loose soil mixture of
50% peat moss and top soil is helpful.
Care for House Plants. H202 can help eliminate mold buildup on clay
plant pots and saucers and control the infestation of some small insects
which attack plant foliage. Spray on 1teaspoon per l6oz of water.
Stronger dilutions may be acceptable depending on the hardiness of
the plant. For spraying directly on leaves, test the concentration
first on a small area.
Natural Elimination of Mold. Mold is a fungus which thrives in moist
environments and poor ventilation. Like all microorganisms, it needs
time to develop. Regular rinsing with strong water pressure mechanically
removes the mold bacteria before they can take hold. The best prevention
of mold problems is the daily rinsing of your sprouts with good water
pressure. H202 is not substitute for rinsing.
Black Oil Sunflower. The biggest of the bunch. A towering blossom
of health. Four percent protein--more than spinach! Takes approximately
10 days to mature. With the black oil sprouting variety, 99% of the
shells fall off naturally. Has a tremendous appetite for water. The
shells themselves (not the seeds) are prone to fungus. Rinse thoroughly
twice per day (don't miss) with plenty of water pressure and leave
plenty of air in the greenhouse tent. Remove them with a fork and
flush the area clean. Sunflower--can you guess--likes the sun. Just
make sure they do not get too hot. Plenty of rinsing cools them and
helps the shells slip off. Basket method.
Radish. Watch out. This is a hot one and can bite! Respect your radish
and it will provide many happy meals for you. Takes 5-6 days to mature.
Shells fall off easily. A white fur is common to see growing during
early growth. This indicates watering is not adequate either in terms
of pressure, volume or frequency. The white fur is harmless and easily
rinsed away. Don't let it go too far or it could lead to mold China
Rose Radish is the best sprouting variety. It has beautiful colored
leaves and red stalks. Radish will clear clogged sinuses and chest.
Great to mix with milder varieties. Basket method.
Cabbage. A little guy with a light green complexion and a notch at
the top of the head Takes 5 days to mature. Because of its small size,
Cabbage finds it more difficult to root into the basket weaves than
other sprouts. Try not to disturb the seeds' orientation during days
2-4. This is the critical period when it attempts to root. Once they
root, they are rather tight fisted and unlike the others, need to
be yanked out in lumps. Lots of seeds remain on the bottom. The seed
jackets can mold, so rinse them out and rinse harvested sprouts as
well. Basket method.
Turnip, rutabaga, kale, and rapeseed
are exotic members of the cabbage family. Black mustard looks like the
cabbage family but much hotter. These are delicious sprouts especially
if you like cabbage, but they are hard to find 5-6 days maturity.
Basket method.
Alfalfa. The most famous sprout and a celebrity to whom all
others owe a debt of gratitude. Alfalfa gets its name from the Arabic
"al falfa," father of all foods. One of the richest sources
of chlorophyll and magnesium as witnessed by its dark green color.
Mild tasting. It holds on to its seed jackets tightly and matures
in 7 days when 90% of them have fallen. Rinsing in the inverted position
(see p. 17) successfully eliminates most hulls. Sensitive to hot temperatures
and direct sunshine. Alfalfa will decay if it gets too hot indicated
by a softening (mushiness) of the stalk and an ammonia smell. Avoid
this during hot weather by rinsing more often and with cold water.
Keep in a shady spot. Basket method.
Red Clover. A cousin of alfalfa, considers itself the prettiest
of all sprouts and whether or not you agree, it is certainly one of
the fastest and easiest to grow. It matures in only 6 days. Although
it is not quite as tall as Alfalfa, it has a sharper flavor, a larger
leaf, and a lighter green complexion. It surrenders its hulls easily
making it the simplest of sprouts to clean. Don' t miss this grand
lady. Basket method.
Crimson Clover. There are many kinds of clover but crimson
has the largest leaf. A cousin of alfalfa, it has all the same characteristics
especially regarding hot temperature. It is even more sensitive to
heat than alfalfa It relieves its seed jackets or hulls readily--more
than any other seed, providing a clean, green salad free of hulls.
This clover is related to the famous 4-leaf clover and other clovers
blooming on your lawn in the spring. Basket method.
Buckwheat. Buckwheat is actually not a wheat at all but an
herb, which is good news to those of you with wheat allergies. It
is quite big--4-5 inches tall and rich in B-vitamin factors like choline
and inositol. Buckwheat takes approximately 10 days to mature and
is ready when 90% of its hulls have fallen off. You'll never get 100%
hull removal so don't try because the seeds ripen at different rates.
Harvest by yanking out a 1 inch handful and either washing or cutting
off the hulls at the roots. Because the hulls are so large, they can
develop fungus. Take special care washing the buckwheat seeds during
the rooting stage (First 5-6 days). Good thorough washing of the seeds
and the baskets eliminates mold. Buckwheat needs light, warmth and
moisture in order to maximize hull drop-off. Basket method. (For more
on buckwheat see p. 146)
Garlic & Onion Chives. The healthiest form of these vegetables
is the young plant. These healing foods are easier to digest and rich
in chlorophyll at this early stage of their development and they possess
all the mysterious cell factors that make these foods famous in folklore
and herbal medicine. Chlorophyll neutralizes the famous odor. The
young chives take 14 days to mature. The black seed jackets hang on
tenaciously. Surrender to them, they are okay.
China Red Pea. This bean makes pea greens 4-6 inches tall!
Lots of fiber in the stalks, mild taste. Take care to let the anchor
in the basket. As your crop matures, wash away fallen husks and seed
matter which are prone to decay. Cousin of mung. Matures in 8-10 days.
Can also be sprouted in bag for 3-4 days, on this bean later.
Kamut Egyptian Wheat. A high protein (18%),big brother of American
wheat (12%). It's delicious. Takes 3-4 days the sprout bag for the
shoots to grow to half the size of the berry. This is the right length
for making a delicious sprout bread. Shake the grains within the bag
to keep them from rooting into the fabric walls.
Soft White Wheat. This whole grain has no relation white flour. The
term "white" refers to its golden color. This grain has
less protien and gluten than regular wheat and is used for pastry
flour in the baking trade. Sprout it in the sprout bag for two days
to make sprout crackers and cookies or 3-4 days for snacks. Great
mixed with raisins.
Shelled "Silver" Sunflower. This is the standard
sunflower with the shell removed. Grow this sunflower in the sprout
bag for only 2 days. Because there is no shell cover, the air will
oxidize the seeds turning them brown in color much like a half-eaten
apple turns brown after a minute. There is no harm. Refrigerate sprout
after 2 days growth. Enjoy in salads or as a snack. Great with raisins.
Lentil & Green Pea. Easy to grow beans taking 5 days in the sprout
bag. The pea is still a raw bean and needs cooking or steaming for
consumption in any volume.
Sproutable Barley. This is a special hybrid variety of barley that
is grown without the usual heavy husk on it. Often, when the husk
is removed, the germination is damaged and may be as low as 80%. You
can use barley for making sprout bread just like wheat. Sprouted barley
is famous for making barley malt, the sweetener developed as the sprout
converts its starch into grain sugar (maltose) The bread is delicious
and "meaty" and can serve as a vegetarian "meat loaf'
substitute. Since we cannot eat whole barley because of its heavy
husk, this barley is a welcome alternative. However, it is rare and
hard to find. Sprout bag.
Mung & Adzuki. These small beans take only 5 days to grow in the
sprout bag. They are Chinese cousins. Mung requires a little extra
work removing the seed jackets although the jackets are hurmless and
a good source of fiber. Empty your mung into a sink or pot full of
water and skim off the green hulls as they float to the top. Mung
is also famous for an occasional hard seed which won't sprout and,
regrettably, feels like a pebble in your mouth. Sprout bag.
Fenugreek. One of the tallest
and greenest sprouts. A bitter herb. For best flavor, always mix with
alfalfa and clover. Fenugreek is easy to grow and mature in 8-9 days.
Excellent for soothing the digestive track. Does best in cool temperatures,
below 75. It blends excellently with the other sprouts. Basket or sprout bag.
Wheatgrass. Wheatgrass is the 12-14 day wheat sprout that resembles
the grass in your backyard. The grass is not eaten in salads because
it is too fibrous to swallow. Although cows and horses do a fine job
on grass humans don't have the stomach for it. Instead, the grass
is grown for its juice. Soil method.
Gelatinous Seeds. Chia, Flax, and psyllium are all gelatinous
seeds which create a small amount of pretty greens cherished more
for their ornamental beauty than for their contribution to your salad
As a group, they mature in approximately two weeks (14 and are spicy,
bitter and mild tasting respectively.
Fennel. Fennel is a relative of dill and caraway, but unlike its
cousins, is a good germinator. It is a vertical growing seed that develops
delicate green shoot. Although they will also sprout in the sprout
in the sprout bag, a vertical sprouter provides the best growing environment
for them. Fennel is a slow-to-start seed with a harvest time of approximately
14 days. Unlike other sprouting seeds, there is no hull to far off.
Both seed and shoot can be eaten and enjoyed. And what flavor! Fennel
is an aromatic herb that adds zest to any salad or grain dish. It
can even be included in sprout bread Fennel is easily digestible in
the raw state and a small amount goes a long way because of its rich
flavor. Soak 3 Tbsp overnight and germinate in a 6 inch basket or
vertical sprouter for 10-14 days. Sprouts store in the refrigerator
for approximately 1 week.
Characteristics of Good Sprouting Seed
| Organically Grown |
Big, unblemished leaves |
| 90+ to 99+ Germination |
Shells fall off naturally |
| Fast rate of growth |
Tall and long shoots |
| No hard seed |
One year-plus shelf life |
| Clean, no debris |
Resistance to root rot |
Storage of Seeds, Pyramids
Some years ago, an interesting story about seeds was in the news.
Wheat berries, it seems, were discovered entombed in one of the great
pyramids. Wheat was a treasured grain considered to be the staff of
life and was often served up as an offering to the goddess of agriculture
by the Greeks and to the Goddess Ceres by the Romans. Even as early
as 2,800 B.C. in China, elaborate ceremonies were conducted honoring
the cereal grains. But it was the Egyptian goddess Isis who is purported
to have discovered the wheat grain in Phoenicia (now Lebanon). The
Egyptian kings often buried themselves with wheat so they could have
food in the hereafter. All this is certainly fascinating, but the
real news story here is that after thousands of years, the wheat berries
still sprouted.
Don't worry, you are not required to store your sprouting seeds in
a pyramid, although modern mini-pyramid domes are available and work
well. But there is a lesson of the pyramids: keep your seeds dry,
cool and well protected to avoid contamination. In addition to these
basic tenets of proper storage, you will need to know a little about
the storage characteristics of the different seeds. Armed with this
information you can store all your sprouting seeds without fear.
Storing in Jar
Jars are the most common and probably the most successful storage
method. First, sterilize the jars, then dry them thoroughly. An oven
is a good place to dry your jars because a 200'F. oven sterilizes
and dries them at the same time. If you dry your jars outside bacteria
or other micro-organisms, not to mention dust and other particulate
matter, may contaminate the jar. Once you have a sterile jar, it is
important that you achieve a complete seal. Many lids have rubber
washers in them which provide a moisture proof seal. Other jars use
cardboard inside the lids, and still others use a silicone coating.
All of these methods are better than plain metal to glass which makes
an incomplete seal.
Placement is also important. Find a location that is less influenced
by the elements--light, temperature and air. Avoid direct sun and
heat. Cellars are traditionally the best storage areas. If you store
your seeds there, keep your jars elevated so as to avoid mice, vermin
and floods. If your quantities are small and manageable in the kitchen,
keep them in cabinets. The lower cabinets may be preferable to the
higher ones because heat rises and collects in the highest spot.
Seeds Sensitivity to Temperature & Storage
Hard Seeds |
Less Hardy |
Very Delicate |
| Alfalfa |
Barley |
Shelled Sunflower |
| Cabbage |
Buckwheat |
Whole Sunflower |
| Red Clover |
Corn |
|
| Fenugreek |
Peanuts |
|
| Chia |
Hard Wheat |
|
| Kale |
Soft Wheat |
|
| Mustard |
Millet |
|
| Red Radish |
Flax |
|
| Turnip |
Quinoa |
|
| Psyllium |
Oats |
|
| Adzuki |
Rye |
|
| Soybean |
Triticale |
|
| Green Pea |
Lentil |
|
| Mung Bean |
Garbanzo |
|
Kamut, Egyptian Wheat
If you hear the name Kamut get excited. It's wheat. Yes, there are thousands of wheats,
all members of the triticum family, but Kamut is different. It's 4,000 years old. It was
brought to this country after excavation from an Egyptian tomb near the Nile River in
Dahshur, Egypt. Because the tomb was so dry, the grain never lost its vitality. Talk about
seed storage! Only 36 kernels were brought to the U.S. in 1950 and planted in Montana. Six
years later, 1,500 bushels of this Egyptian borne wheat were produced.
Big deal? It wouldn't be, except that this wheat is different. Each
kernel is 2 ? times larger than common spring wheat and it is 17%-18%
protein as compared to an average 12% protein for regular spring wheat.
It is also lower in carbohydrates and higher in lipids (fat) so it
has more calories. Of course, like all wheat, there is no cholesterol.
Kamut is higher in 8 of the 9 minerals commonly found in wheat including
significantly more magnesium and zinc. The yield is also better and
it is drought resistant.
No interest was shown in the grain for years and it was sold a cattle
feed until the mid-1980's. Today, Kamut (pronounced "kamoot"
after the word for "ancient wheat") is popular in macrobiotic
circles and is used in whole wheat pastas and puffed wheat cereal
It sprouts easily and has a delicious wholesome taste--great for sprout
breads, cookies and snacks. Although, it is still hard to find keep
your ears open to hear more about this new/old exciting variety of
wheat.
Nutrition Value of Kamut vs. Average Wheat [6]
| |
Average Wheat |
Kamut |
| WATER |
11.5 |
9.8 |
| PROTEIN |
12.3 |
17.3 |
| FAT |
1.9 |
2.6 |
| CARBOHYDRATE |
72.7 |
68.2 |
| CALCIUM |
30.0 |
31.0 |
| IRON |
3.9 |
4.2 |
| MAGNESIUM |
117.0 |
153.0 |
| PHOSPHORUS |
396.0 |
411.0 |
| POTASSIUM |
400.0 |
446.0 |
| SODIUM |
2.0 |
3.8 |
| ZINC |
3.2 |
4.3 |
| MANGANSE |
3.8 |
3.2 |
| NIACIN |
5.31 |
5.54 |
| THIAMINE |
0.42 |
0.45 |
| RIBOFIAVIN |
.11 |
0.12 |
Ancient Grain
About one hundred and fifty years ago bananas were unknown in the
United States and peanuts were only eaten by slaves. So who's to say
that an old South American grain called Quinoa (pronounced keen-wa)
won't become a popular American staple. It is uncanny that such a
wonderfully tasty and nutritionally important food could be lost,
forgotten and even shunned in its native land. Quinoa was grown by
the Incas on terraces in the Andes Mountains in Peru, Bolivia and
Chile, the same places where it is grown by farmers today. It is a
hardy plant which resembles the weed lambs quarters. It thrives in
low rainfall, high altitudes and survives when other food crops cannot.
The Incas would grind it into flour for breads, biscuits, use its
leaves for vegetables, burn the stalks for fuel and use the saponin
from its soak water as a soap. But, today, even in areas where production
is greatest, it is hard to find quinoa in a restaurant. People are
embarrassed to admit knowledge of it because of cultural ignorance
and radio and television commercials which promote refined foods imported
from other countries. How sad considering they are literally sitting
on a nutritional gold mine. Quinoa contains more protein than any
other grain with an average of 16.2% and some varieties as high as
20%. Some wheats come close to matching quinoa's protein content,
but corn, barley and rice are no competition. Like soybeans, quinoa
is exceptionally high in lysine as well as other amino acids Phenylalanine,
Tyrosine, Cystine and Methionine. This makes it very compatible with
other grains which, as a group, are low in lysine, and with soybeans
which is low methionine and cystine. In fact, its over all amino acid
make-up is similar to milk!
Selected Mineral Comparison of Grains [8]
Mg per 100 grams of weight
| |
Calcium |
Phosphorus |
Iron |
| Quinoa |
141.0 |
449.0 |
6.6 |
| Wheat |
36.0 |
224.0 |
4.6 |
| Yellow Corn |
6.0 |
207.0 |
3.7 |
| White Rice |
8.0 |
143.0 |
- - |
Latin Names For Sprouting Seeds
| Radish |
Rahpanus sativus |
| Wheat |
Triticum, T. Vulgare,
T. Aestivum |
| Sunflower |
Helianthus, Helianthemum
|
| Fenugreek |
Trigonella Fenum
Graecum. |
| Alfalfa |
Medicago sativa.
Lucerne. |
| Clover |
Trifolium incarnatum |
| Green Pea |
Pisum sativum |
| Adzuki |
Phaseolus Angularis |
| Mung bean |
Phaseolus a
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